Turtuk Diaries: Tales of a wonderland

My Dad put me in the habit of reading and writing right when I was as little as 4. As I grew, he often bought home varied titles right from Puss in Boots to Thumbelina and authors from Enid Blyton to Rudyard Kipling. He also helped me in my school essays, and I was so inspired by the stories he would create back then. One such story stayed with me, and that was of a town lost in time. Where rivers graced the town bearing crystal clear waters, where the sky was the most pleasant blue you may have ever seen, where the trees were so tall, they seemed as if they were kissing the sky.

Turtuk Leh Ladakh

Cut to July 2018. I visited a place that brought this fantasy story to life. It was my third day on the Leh-Ladakh trip. We had just left Khardungla top and headed towards Nubra Valley. Now, most people take a halt here, or explore this place and get back to Leh. That is because very few people know of a wonderland that is around a 4-5 hour drive ahead. We had a quick stopover at Nubra for lunch and then continued ahead excitedly.


The Hype

The place was quite hyped by our tour organizer friend Stallon Ferns, so we were quite excited. But the excitement soon started wearing off. The roads became scarier, the Shyok river keeping us company all along became mightier and louder, the mountains kept changing colours from purple to black and all shades of brown. There was not a soul in sight for the longest time. This 4-hour drive seemed never-ending as if we were driving to the end of the world! We were tired and hoped that all the hype better lived up to the expectations.

Shyok River Ladakh
The mighty grey Shyok River

Just about 15 mins before reaching the place, the landscape started changing. We could see rivulets in the purest turquoise blue joining the mighty grey Shyok. The browns and blacks turned to greens and blues. As we were just beginning to appreciate the changing landscape, the driver stopped and announced that we had reached.


Seeing the hype live up to expectations

Turtuk Leh Ladakh
Turtuk : The Wonderland

As I got off the vehicle, a rare breeze seemed to hit my face. There right in front of my eyes was a pure white waterfall stream that flowed in all its glory. A walking bridge overhead connected both the parts of the town. I was overjoyed when I learned we were to cross the bridge to reach our homestay. (I have a thing for bridges, flyovers & tunnels, don't judge) When I stood on that bridge and just looked around, it dawned on me. This place is exactly the same as was in that story years ago. Turtuk. It was right out of a fairy tale, a wonderland that did exist.

Turtuk
Walking over to the other side of the stream

My heart was dancing as I matched its beats to race towards our homestay. Karim Bhai, our host, had come to receive us and was leading the way. After 10 mins of walking through lush green fields, surrounded by some crazy mountains, we reached Bagdour Guest House. A wonder(ful) home in a wonderland, indeed. Karim's home had a stream flowing along its stretch with water so clean, fresh, and cold. This water is used by all the households in the village to drink, cook, bathe, et al. There was a bridge connecting the home to a private sit-out area, which was the first place we ran to. Fresh cherries (picked from the trees around the sit-out), a warm cup of Kahwa (the special Kashmiri tea), and biscuits were laid out to welcome us! At that moment, we knew we wanted to stay there more days than we actually had planned to.

Where to stay in Turtuk

Soon it was dark. After a good session of Jenga, we headed to relish the organic spread of Kashmiri home-cooked food. That night I slept like a baby, reminiscing about my dad's stories and drawing similarities with where I was!


Things to do in Turtuk

Here are some exclusive things that you could indulge in, when in this wonderland. Make the most of it as you are going to treasure these times for your lifetime. Mark our words!


1. Take a village tour

Things to see in Turtuk
Village tour in Turtuk

Karim Bhai, our host, led the way to show us this wonderland he called home. We started near his house and went all the way to the K2 viewpoint and back. Along the way, we passed by local homes, the community well, local farms, trekked on edges as the Shyok river kept company alongside, way below. My, my, what an experience! One must-do while on the tour? Grab as many apricots as you like and keep gulping them down along the way. You'll be tired but the apricot trees will keep tempting you!


2. Visit the LOC at the last village of India, Thaang (just 2 km from Pakistan)

Things to see in Turtuk
India's Northernmost LOC : Thaang

This was the closest we could get to POK, just 2 km away! We could literally see Pakistan and it looked equally beautiful. I remember when we were there, it was the last day of the Maratha regiment soldiers and we were glad to meet a few of them and spoke to them in Marathi as well. It was such a proud moment to see those Bravehearts on duty, narrating the bravest stories with such humility. So Turtuk, Thaang, and all of these villages here were part of Baltistan, Pakistan(POK) until India won these regions in the 1971 Indo-Pak war. There are families here who have their close relatives across the border but can't meet them. Tourism started here quite later from 2010. Even then, this border wasn't accessible to tourists. However, we got lucky that it was opened a few months before we went there. There's also a restaurant there which serves maggie, kahwa, etc. We had maggie with a view of the LOC, how often does that happen? Errr. Never.


3. Catch the shooting stars in the (super) starry skies